JCM inVentures Inc.
Colour instructions for Solarfly now online!! Click here to download (600K )
FABRICATION of CYBUG SCARAB
This page was developed from the CYBUG Scarab manual
to give you a colour version of the construction guide to help you with
Note: Right-click on images and select view image for a more detailed view
Place the following resistors
in the identified location. They should be flush with the circuit board.
Flaring the leads slightly on the opposite side will help hold the parts
in when the board is turned upside down for soldering. Note: W
For good solder connections, you must keep the soldering iron tip clean. Wipe it often with a sponge or cloth.
NOTE: The label 103 on the monolithic capacitors refers to 10x103 pF or 0.01x10-6 farads ( 0.01 uF ) There is no polarity on this part.
This part of the fabrication involves mounting the semi-conductors onto the CYBUG. Please note: All these components are polarity sensitive, and will be damaged if they are put in upside down. Please heed all directions.
Diodes have polarity! The black bar on the diode is the negative end, and must align with the white line on the printed circuit board
( ) D2 & D4 - 1n4148 Diodes Small orange glass component
When installing LEDs, watch the polarity! The negative side is the side with the slightly shorter lead and the plastic base of the LED has a slight flat impression. These must line up with the flat line marking on the printed circuit board!
Integrated circuits must be installed with the notch on the top of the plastic case aligned with the notch shown on the silk- screen.
( ) IC1, IC2, and IC3. Install Integrated Circuits
When installing the transistors and voltage regulator, line up the flat side of the plastic case with the line on the white silk-screen. Leave about 5mm lead length from the base of the component to the circuit board. BE CAREFUL! The 2n3904 transistors look JUST LIKE THE 78L05! Dont mix them up!
( ) Solder the leads to the circuit
board and cut off excess lead lengths.
This section details the installation of the motors, feelers, and other finishing details.
( ) Cut 3 cm lengths of wire ( two black and two red) from the end of the 9V battery clip leads. Strip 0.5cm of insulation from each of the ends.
( ) Lightly sand each motor on the side of the motor opposite the red stripe
( ) Attach the red and black wires to the two motors, using the motor terminal with the red dot for the red wire.
( ) Cut two lengths of stiff brass wire 4.5cm long and straighten them.
( ) Bend each of the ends of the stiff brass wire precisely as shown below (Actual size). These wires will form the motor bracket.
( ) Solder the motor support rods on to the CYBUG circuit boards at the points marked A and B. (Do both sides.)
( ) Solder the loose ends of the red
an black motor wires to the pads on either side of C5 and C6.
This part of the exercise creates the feelers which our CYBUGs depend upon for avoiding obstacles.
( ) Prepare two pieces of brass feeler
wire, each about 17 cm long. One end of each wire must be bent at a 90
degree angle about 0.5 cm along the length.
( ) Pass a 15cm brass feeler wire through the right loop of wire, across the front of the CYBUG and into the "left feeler" pad. Solder the 90 degree bent end into the "left feeler" pad.
( ) Repeat the previous step for the other "right feeler" It should be a mirror image of the left feeler.
( ) Using pliers, bend the feeler wire
around the front of the CYBUG as shown in illustration "feeler wire detail"
You must now decide if you want your robot to chase light sources ( photo-tropic ) or run from light sources ( photo-phobic )
( ) For Photo-tropic behavior, solder a short wire connecting jumpers J1 ( a to b ) and J2 ( c to d ).
( ) For Photo-phobic behavior, solder wire from a to d and another wire from c to b.
( ) Solder a length of brass wire 3 cm long to hang down below one of the solder pads by LED D3. This will act to prevent our CYBUG from tipping on his nose ( Front Support Rod ).
( ) Similarly, solder another brass wire ( support rod ) 3cm long to the pad behind R11 to stop the CYBUG from tipping backward.
( ) Slice a ¼ inch section of the hot glue stick with a sharp knife to use as a wheel. Poke a hole in the center of the disk with small nail. Press the motor shaft into the hole.
( ) Prepare the 9V battery clip by cutting the red and black wires to a length of 8 cm and stripping 0.5 cm of insulation off each end.
( ) Connect the pads immediately behind the L293 motor controller using a small piece of uninsulated wire ( See Jumper Detail )
( ) Loop the red and black leads through the large holes as shown then solder battery clip leads to pads near the back of the CYBUG labeled RED and BLACK.. This will provide a small amount of strain relief
Bringing the CYBUG to life
The first time you apply power to your first CYBUG, it may behave rather awkwardly. You will need a small screwdriver to adjust its behavior.
The following adjustments should be performed in normal room light.
My CYBUG doesnt move at all! No lights, no nothing!
Sounds like he has an energy crisis. Assuming his batteries are OK, I suggest you check carefully that you have not placed the voltage regulator in backwards or attached the 9V battery clip backwards.
His red LEDs light up and he moves, but he only backs up ( or backs up on one side )
Your CYBUG has one or both of his feelers touching the feeler sensor loop through which they pass. Carefully bend the lengths of feeler wire so that they pass directly through the loops, but dont touch the loop. If the feelers touch something, then they will touch the loop!
He moves OK, but his eye(s) arent lighting up!
Chances are you have put his LEDs in backwards. Make sure the flat part on the base of the LED is facing the back of the CYBUG.
Both motors go forward 100% of the time, and pay no attention to the light or obstacles.
This can happen if the jumpers J1 and J2 are not installed. Be sure that the two jumpers are in place as described on page 8 of this manual